Anleitungen

title: "Charlie chinos: Sewing Instructions"

Schritt 1: Nähe den hinteren Abnäher

First thing we're going to do is close the waist dart on the back panel.

To do so, fold the back panel double with good sides together making sure to match both sides of the dart on top of each other.

Now sew the dart close, making sure to use a small stitch length, and to sew all the way to the end of the dart, even a couple of stitches off the fabric.

Deine hinteren Abnäher sollten dieselbe Länge haben. Achte darauf, sie präzise zu nähen.

Schritt 2: Konstruiere die hinteren Taschen

Follow our double welt pocket instructions to create the back welt pockets.

Da es sich dabei um Chinos handelt, kann / sollte man sich um die Weltoffenöffnung herumreißen. It's not strictly required for welt pockets, and typically not done on classic trousers (and thus not shown in the instructions) but it's a very typical finish for chinos, and makes it easier to keep everything in place.

Befestige die hintere Tasche mit der Tasche

Join the back pocket facing to the pocket bag by placing them with good sides together and sewing along the longest of the non-curved seams of the facing.

When you're done, press the seam allowance to the side of the pocket bag.

Befestige die hintere Tasche

Sew the bottom of the pocket bag to the bottom welt. Press it down when done.

Now align the top of the pocket bag with the waist and sew it down in the waist's seam allowance.

Tasche zurück schließen

Fold the leg panel out of the way so you can close both sides of the pocket bag.

Stelle sicher, dass du auch die Tasche nach unten schweißen kannst

You should overlock/serge the sides of the pocketbag so they don't ravel.

Wenn du keine Overlock/Serger hast, kannst du stattdessen immer einen Zick-Zack-Zack-Stich verwenden.

Schritt 3: Übersperren Sie Vorder- und Rückkanten

Before we go any further, we'll overlock/serge the edges of the front and back panels of the legs. Make sure to also catch the top of the pocket bag when doing the back panels.

What we want to to prevent these edges from ravelling after we've completed our trousers, and now is the best time to do so.

Schritt 4: Erstellen Sie die Vordertasche öffnen

The front pockets are a little unusual because they have the appearance of classic slanted pockets, but are constructed on the side seam.

Befestigen Sie die Fronttasche mit den Taschentaschen

We have two front pocket bags, that each have two pieces of facing to attach to them.

Align them with good sides together (*) and sew the facing in place.

(*) Mit einer Tasche ist es nicht so offensichtlich, was die gute Seite sein sollte.

Wollen Sie, dass die gute Seite das ist, was Sie fühlen, wenn Sie Ihre Hand in die Tasche setzen? Oder wollen Sie, dass es das ist, was Sie sehen, wenn Ihre Hosen auf dem Boden liegen und ihre Innenseite zeigen.

Hier gibt es keine richtige oder falsche Antwort. Sie tun das.

Markieren Sie die Taschenlampe an der Verkleidung der Tasche und Vorder- und Rückenbeinplatten

There's a notch on both front and back leg panels that indicates up to what point the pocket facing should be attached to the side seam.

Make sure to transfer this notch to both the (edge of the) pocket facing and the front trouser leg, since it's important we match them.

Die Tasche an der Vorder- und Rückenbeinleiste anheften oder stützen

Both on the front and the back leg panel, we're going to sew the pocket facing to the side seam.

However, this needs to be precise, so you really want to make sure you either pin or baste it in place.

Beginnen Sie mit der Front, denn das ist die einfachere Naht. Sobald du eine Übung hast, kannst du die Rückseite machen

Nähen Sie die Vordertasche

Sew from the waist down right until the notch that indicates where to stop.

Drücken Sie die Vordertasche

Now press the slant of the front pocket, both on the back and front panel, so that it's a sharp crease.

Schritt 5: Die Ausgangssperre schließen

Schließen Sie die vorderen Taschen

I strongly advise you to baste the pocket shut/in place before sewing this seam so that you know it's precise.

Closing the outseam means to place front and back panel with good sides together, and sew the outer seam. That's easy enough at the legs, but at the top we have our pocket, which complicates things.

Nähen Sie die Oberseite der Außennaht bis in die obere Schicht der Tasche

Make sure everything is neatly aligned. Then sew from the top of the waist down to the top notch (this is just over a cm or half an inch).

Nähen Sie den Boden der Außennaht von der unteren Schicht der Tasche

Now move to the bottom notch of the pocket slant, and sew from there all the way to the bottom of the legs.

Drücke die äußere Naht geöffnet

When you're done, make sure to press the seam allowance open along the leg. Don't press the pocket, we already did that.

Schritt 6: Beende die Tasche vorne

Nähttasche nach innen

With our pocket opening constructed and outer seam closed, we should now finish the pocket bag.

Pull the pocket bag out so that it dangles on the outside of the trouser leg. Then place both halves together and either use a serger to finish the edge, or sew closely to the edge.

Make sure you end up at the point where the bottom part of the outer seam starts.

Beende Tasche Kante

When you're done, you can flip the pocket bag back to the inside of the trouser leg.

Our pocket bag is now closed, but when we put our hand in it, you can feel the raw edge of the seam allowance. To avoid that, topstitch along the edge of the pocket bag, locking in the seam allowance.

Wenn Ihre Naht breit ist, sollten Sie sie vielleicht zuerst zurückschneiden.

Schritt 7: Bar-Tack die Tasche öffnen

At the place the leg down with the good side up, making sure the pocket bag lies flat and towards the front panel.

Now at the top and bottom of the pocket opening, place a bar-tack perpendicular to the outer seam.

Schritt 8: Inseam schließen

With our front pockets finished, close the inseam of both legs.

When you're done, press open the inseam.

Schritt 9: Kreuzung schließen

Make sure one leg is turned with the good side out, and the other has the good side in.

Now tuck the leg with the good side out inside the leg that has the good side in. This way, they have their good sides against each other.

Align the cross seam, starting at the back waist, pinning both halves together as you make your way towards the fly. Stop at the lowest fly notch.

When you're done. Do it again. Always sew the cross seam twice. It's one of those best practices you ignore at your own peril.

Achten Sie besonders darauf, die Nähte sorgfältig auszurichten, bei denen beide Beine ihre Rücken- und Frontplatten miteinander verbunden haben. Dadurch wird sichergestellt, dass Ihre Quernahtergebnisse mit einem perfekt ausgerichteten cross übereinstimmen, bei dem sich 4 Musterteile an einem einzigen Punkt treffen.

Richtig zu sein ist eines der Dinge, die du am Ende jedes Mal hochschätzst, wenn du diese trägst.

Schritt 10: Konstruktion des Hosenstalls

Fliegenverlängerung schließen

Fold the fly extension on its fold line with good sides together.

Now sew along the bottom, to close the fly extension.

Trim back one half of the seam allowance to remove bulk before turning it good side out and pressing.

Bediene die Fliegenverlängerung und fliege nach vorne

Serge (or zig-zag) along the open side of the fly extension. No need to serge the top as that will get caught in our waistband.

while you're at it, also serge along the entirety of the fly facings J-shaped edge.

Ausschneiden der zusätzlichen Naht auf der Vorderseite des linken Beins

There's extra seam allowance that runs along the fly. We only need this on the right leg panel. Cut it away on the left panel so you're left with the regular seam allowance only.

Fliegenanhang anhängen

Sew the fly facing to the left front. Place them with good sides together, aligning the top.

In der Spitze der Fliegenfront stecken

Fold the bottom of the fly facing seam allowance inwards and secure with a few stitches.

Kantenstich die Fliege mit Blick auf die Naht

Sew the fly facing to the seam allowance. Make sure to leave the front panel out of it.

Drücken Sie Quernaht, Fliegenrichtung und Fliegenkante

Press open the cross seam. Press the fly facing to the side.

Then, fold over the extra seam allowance on the right front leg and press it down.

Füge den Reißverschluss in die Fly-Erweiterung ein

Place the zipper along the (slightly curved) edge of the fly extension.

Now sew along the edge. No need to get close to the zipper, just sew along the edge to hold them in place.

Reißverschluss am Hosenstall befestigen

Now place the right front leg's fly with the extra seam allowance that you folded back on top of the zip.

Use a zipper foot edge-stitch the folded-over edge along the zipper edge.

Vielleicht solltest du diese zuerst einfügen, um sicher zu gehen, dass sie schön parallel zum Reißverschluss ist. Schließen, aber nicht zu nah.

Nähen Sie den Reißverschluss zur Fliege

Now sew the other side of the zipper to the fly facing. Make sure to align it properly so that when the trousers are closed, the zip is hidden.

Beende die Kreuznaht

Sew the last bit of the cross seam up to the highest fly notch.

Nähen Sie die J-Naht der Fliege

Now topstitch the so-called J-seam of the fly. Make sure to keep the fly extension out of the way.

Bar tackt den unteren Rand des Fliegens

Now bartack the very botton of the J-seam (the horizontal part) but this time make sure to also catch the fly extension.

Schritt 11: Befestige die Gürtelschlaufen

Konstruiere die Gürtelschlaufen

Für die Effizienz werden wir einen langen Streifen Gurtschleifen in 8 Teile zerlegen.

Cut a strip 80cm long (32 inch) and 2.8cm wide (1 1/8 inch).

Serge (or zigzag) the long edge of the strip on both sides.

Fold one side inwards, and the other side over it. Then press down with your iron. The end result should be a long strip about 1cm wide.

Now sew along the entire length of the strip, smack in the middle of it. Make sure to use a generous stitch length for this.

Finally, cut your length belt loops strip into 8 equal parts to make 8 belt loops.

Befestige die Gürtelschlaufen

We're going to divide our belt loops along the waist:

• 2 in der Mitte hinten, die jeweils ein bisschen von der Mitte beiseite gesetzt, so dass es eine kleine Lücke zwischen ihnen.
• 1 über dem Rückendart auf jeder Seite
• 1 an jeder Seite mehr oder weniger wo die Seitennaht die Taille treffen würde, wenn sie gerade nach oben ging
• 1 auf jeder Seite von der Mitte vorne. Nicht zu nah beieinander, so dass es keinen Platz für Gürtelschnallen gibt, aber auch nicht zu weit, so dass es nicht seltsam aussieht

Place the belt loop at these places with their good side down (against the good side of the fabric of your trousers, and the top aligned with the waist) Sew this down in the seam allowance of the waist, making sure that they are perpendicular to the waistband.

Schritt 12: Taillenband anhängen

Kurvenband anordnen

If you're making a straight waistband, skip directly to attaching the waistband to the outside.

Place both waistbands with good sides together, and sew along the top of the waistband (the shorter edge).

Trim the seam allowance of the inner waistband, and press all seam allowances towards the inner waistband.

You can now treat your assembled waistband as one piece, and continue as for the straight waistband.

Um sicherzustellen, dass dein inneres Taillenband nicht aussieht, kannst du _understitch_. Nähen Sie eine Linie des Nähens auf der Innenbund, in der Nähe der Kante, durch die innere Taille und Nähte (aber nicht der äußere Taillen!).

Taillenband an die Außenseite anhängen

Place the waistband with good sides together along the waist. For the straight waistband, make sure the side with the standard seam allowance is aligned with the waist, and not the side with double seam allowance.

Also make sure to leave suffucient seam allowance beyond the start and end of the waistband.

Sew along the entirety of the waist, attaching the waist band and sewing down the belt loops in one go.

Drücke die Taille und falte die Taille

Press the seam you just sewed, pressing the seam allowance up into the waistband.

Now fold over the waistband at the correct width and press in the crease.

Schließen Sie den Start und das Ende der Taille.

At the start and end, fold the waistband over so it has its good sides together.

Now sew the end shut by sewing top to bottom to just the point where the waistband seam ends.

Trim back the seam allowance a bit so you can tuck it all into the waistband later.

Taillenband einfügen

The waistband has extra seam allowance here, and we're going to use that to our advantage.

Fold the waistband in the fold you pressed. Then on the inside, fold the seam allowance inwards, making sure to let it run a few mm beyond the waistband seam.

You want to baste this in place so it stays put as you make your way around the waistband.

At the start and end of the waistband, you'll need to tuck in some more seam allowance. Take a moment to get it right.

Die Taille schließen

Now with the good side up, sew exactly in the seam that was sewn before (so called stitch in the ditch).

This will catch the back of the waistband which we've made to extend slightly further, and lock all the seam allowance inside.

Schritt 13: Die Bandschleifen fertigstellen

Nähen Sie die Gürtelschleifen nach unten um sie breiter zu machen

It's best to make the belt loops a bit wider than the waistband, to accomodate wider belts.

For this, let the waistband lie flat, and sew it down with a bartack 1.5cm or so (half an inch) below the waistband.

Nach oben, wieder unten und nach unten nähen

Now fold the belt loops upwards (hiding the bartack you just did).

They'll extend beyond the top of the waistband. So fold the excess down again. Don't fold it over/around the waistband, but fold it double on itself.

Now do a bartack along the top of the waistband to lock the belt loop in place.

When you're done, carefully twist the back of the beltloop to the front and cut off the excess right next to the bartack.

Achten Sie darauf, nicht die Vorderseite Ihrer Hose auf die Rückseite zu verdrängen.

Überprüfen Sie doppelt, dass Sie keine zusätzlichen Ebenen unter Ihrer Nadel haben, weil das Entpicken eines Bartacks keine Freude ist.

Schritt 14: Hem die Hosen

Fold the hem allowance halfway up, and press. Then fold them again, and press again.

Finalize by hand and blind hem your trousers.

Schritt 15: Button auf Knopfloch

Create a buttonhole. Either by hand (it's worth practicing) or with a machine.

Finally, attach the button.

Now take a moment to appreciate all the hard work you did. We hope you'll get a lot of use out of these.